Gold House: December 2015

Saudi Arabia is the dusty, desert ridden heart of Islam, where Muhammad was born and where he pronounced Mecca andMedina to be holy cities. Predictably, it is a strict country where women are invisible behind veils, men wear ankle-length skirts, and alcohol and pigs are off-limits. Mecca, the holiest city in Islam, is entirely out of bounds for non-Muslims – do not try to pretend to be Muslim, either, because it won't be responded to warmly.

Interestingly, Saudi Arabia's wealth – courtesy of oil – has seen the emergence of a starkly modern aspect to some of the cities; most notably, perhaps, is Riyadh, where the glitzy modernity seems to rise up in an impressive shout of support for money and capitalism. But even here the heart of most Saudis remains Islam and the religion is still adhered to rigorously.

Brief History

People of various cultures have lived in the peninsula over a span of more than 5,000 years. Except for a few major cities and oases, the harsh climate historically prevented much settlement of the Arabian Peninsula. The earliest known events in Arabian history are migrations from the peninsula into neighbouring areas. The religion of Islam began with Muhammad. Muhammad began preaching at Mecca before migrating to Medina, from where he united the tribes of Arabia into a singular Arab Muslim religious polity. With Muhammad (Sallah o Alaihe wa Aalihi Wasallam)'s death in 632, disagreement broke out over who would succeed him as leader of the Muslim community. Despite its spiritual importance, in political terms Arabia soon became a peripheral region of the Islamic world, in which the most important states were based at various times in such far away cities as Cairo, Damascus, Delhi, Esfahan, and Istanbul.

After a rebuilding period following the ending of the First Saudi State, the House of Saud returned to power in the Second Saudi State in 1824. The state lasted until 1891 when it succumbed to the Al Rashid dynasty of Ha'il. In 1902 Ibn Saud reconquered Riyadh, the first of a series of conquests leading to the creation of the modern nation state of Saudi Arabia in 1932. The Third Saudi state was founded by the late King Ibn Saud of Saudi Arabia. In 1902 Ibn Saud captured Riyadh, the Al-Saud dynasty's ancestral capital, from the rival Al-Rashid family. Boundaries with Jordan, Iraq, and Kuwait were established by a series of treaties negotiated in the 1920s, with two "neutral zones" created, one with Iraq and the other with Kuwait.
During the 1973 Arab-Israeli war, Saudi Arabia participated in the Arab oil boycott of the United States and Netherlands. A member of the Organization of Petroleum Exporting Countries (OPEC), Saudi Arabia had joined other member countries in moderate oil price increases beginning in 1971. After the 1973 war, the price of oil rose substantially, dramatically increasing Saudi Arabia's wealth and political influence. The location and status of Saudi Arabia's boundary with the United Arab Emirates is not final; a de facto boundary reflects a 1974 agreement.
King Fahd played a key role before and during the 1991 Persian Gulf War: Saudi Arabia accepted the Kuwaiti royal family and 400,000 refugees while allowing Western and Arab troops to deploy on its soil for the liberation of Kuwait the following year.
After the September 11, 2001 attacks, it became known that 15 of the 19 suspected hijackers were Saudi. Saudi Arabia became the focus of worldwide attention once again, as it was questioned whether the government was indeed cracking down on radicals. The Saudi government pledged their support to the War on Terror, and vowed to try to eliminate militant elements. However, in May 2003, an insurgency in Saudi Arabia began, believed to be conducted by al-Qaeda affiliates. This consisted mainly of attacks on foreigners in an attempt to expel them from the country and hurt the Saudi government. While the number of attacks dropped significantly in 2005, they exposed the vulnerability of the country. Concern was also voiced over the large number of Saudis fighting American soldiers in Iraq following the 2003 invasion.
King Fahd died in July 2005. He was succeeded by his brother Crown Prince Abdullah, who had handled most of the day-to-day operations of the government.

Geography

Saudi Arabia shares international borders with Yemen, Oman, Iraq, Jordan, Kuwait, Qatar and the United Arab Emirates. Saudi Arabia occupies about 80 percent of the Arabian peninsula, lying between latitudes 16° and 33° N, and longitudes 34° and 56° E. Because the country's southern borders with the United Arab Emirates and Oman are not precisely defined or marked, the exact size of the country remains unknown, but is estimated at 2,250,000 km2. Saudi Arabia's geography is dominated by the Arabian Desert and associated semi-desert and shrubland (see satellite image to right). It is, in fact, a number of linked deserts and includes the 647,500 km2 Rub' al Khali ("Empty Quarter") in the southern part of the country, the world’s largest contiguous sand desert. There are virtually no rivers or lakes in the country, but wadis are numerous. The few fertile areas are to be found in the alluvial deposits in wadis, basins, and oases. The main topographical feature is the central plateau which rises abruptly from the Red Sea and gradually descends into the Nejd and toward the Persian Gulf. On the Red Sea coast, there is a narrow coastal plain, known as the Tihamah parallel to which runs an imposing escarpment. The southwest province of Asir is mountainous, and contains the 3,133 metres Mount Sawda, which is the highest point in the country.

Regions

Asir - Southwestern highlands with a temperate climate and strong Yemeni influence.
Eastern Province - Covering the Gulf coast, the center of Saudi oil production
Hejaz - On the Red Sea coast, site of Mecca, Medina, Jeddah and the home of trade and commerce.
Nejd - The central highlands centered on Riyadh, the home of the Sauds and the most conservative part of the country.
North - Rarely visited, home to the Nabataean ruins of Madain Saleh.

Cities

Riyadh - the capital of the Kingdom
Jeddah - a large metropolitan city on the Red Sea, and the gateway to Makkah and Madinah
Mecca - the holiest city of Islam
Medina - the site of the Prophet's Mosque
Dammam
Dhahran - the home of Saudi Aramco, the world's largest petroleum company
Tabuk
Najran - a Yemeni-influenced city with a remarkable fortress
Taif - a moderate-sized mountain town and popular resort area

Sights and Activities

Empty Quarter

The Empty Quarter is the largest unbroken sand sea in the world and one of the most hostile environments one can think of. It is located in three countries, but Saudi Arabia has the largest part which contains large parts of the southeast of the country and over the borders into the United Arab Emirates and Oman. As most of it is unreachable and travelling around the country in general is already hard, not many people find themselves here as the modern Lawrence of Arabia. It is said that government forbids travelling here and theoretically only a small part, reachable from the UAE Liwa Oasis (sea the United Arab Emirates article) can be reached by 4wd.

Diving and Snorkelling

As the largest coastal area of the Red Sea belongs to Saudi Arabia, diving and snorkelling are increasinly popular ways of visiting the country and there are several package tourists from Europe who make their way to find some of the most unspoilt areas here, with numerous species of fish and fine coral reefs. Most people fly directly to Jeddah which is the best getaway for a week of beaching, diving and snorkelling. Nearby are Mecca and Medina, but unfortunately off limits to others than muslims.

Madain Saleh

Madain Saleh is the Petra of Saudi Arabia, being a Nabataean city hewed out of rock in the same style as Jordan's top tourist destination. If it wasn't for the strict visitors regulations in the country, this would be a top tourist draw. The closest city from where you can get to Madain Saleh is Al Wajh, with Medina being a bit further away. Still, access to the site by others than tours is difficult if not impossible and in fact many Muslims themselves refuse to enter the area due to a section in the Koran often interpreted as a curse against it.

Other sights and activities

Mecca and Medina - only if you are muslim (either doing Hajj or not)
Rough mountain scenery - Abha is a major mountain resort area

Events and Festivals

Janadriyah National Festival

Saudi Arabia’s biggest folk and cultural festival takes place for two weeks each February in Janadriyah, about 50 kilometres from Riyadh. Thrilling horse and camel races are among the highlights of what may be Saudi Arabia’s liveliest non-religious public gathering. Artisans from across the country sell and display their crafts, while some of Saudi Arabia’s most talented poets recite their latest compositions.

Milad al-Nabi

All Saudi Muslims celebrate the birthday of their Prophet, Mohammad, by elaborately decorating their homes and mosques. Children recite poems about the Prophet, while older Saudis tell stories about Mohammad’s life and accomplishments. Large feasts and street processions are among Milad al-Nabi’s other traditional activities. The date of Milad al-Nabi varies from year to year according to the Islamic calendar.

Jeddah Festival

Perhaps no other Saudi festival is as tourist-friendly as the one which takes place in the port city of Jeddah between June and July. The first Jeddah Festival was held in 2000 to attract more tourists to Saudi Arabia’s second-largest city, but the festival has now grown to include over 200 exciting events. Visitors can sample traditional Saudi dishes, purchase local handicrafts, or watch the opening fireworks display over Jeddah’s stunning Corniche.

Unification of the Kingdom Day

The country’s only secular public holiday takes place each September 23 on the anniversary of Saudi Arabia’s 1932 founding. Although many Saudis still choose to quietly celebrate this formerly low-key holiday at home, growing numbers of young Saudis have chosen to express their national pride more overtly by singing, dancing, honking car horns, and waving Saudi flags.

Eid ul-Fitr

Like their Muslim counterparts in other nations, Saudis mark the final day of the fasting month of Ramadan with this three-day religious festival. Eid ul-Fitr begins with a small morning meal and quiet prayers, and continues with larger feasts and livelier celebrations among family and friends. Saudi children receive money and elaborately decorated gift bags from adults, several shopkeepers add free gifts to all purchases, and Saudi men secretly leave large bags of food on strangers’ doorsteps during this festive time of year.

Eid al-Adha

This important Muslim festival lasts four days and marks the moment when Ibrahim was willing to sacrifice Ismael, his son, for Allah. Today, most Saudi families celebrate Eid al-Adha by dressing up in their finest clothing, saying special prayers, and slaughtering lambs to share their meat with everyone.

Weather

Saudi Arabia has a hot and arid desert climate in most parts of the country. Although this applies to most of the country, temperatures in winter can be relatively low and the mountainous areas in the west (Asir for example) rarely get real hot. In summer (June to September) most of the country is like an oven with temperatures usually hitting 40 °C to 45 °C on most days and over 50 °C is not uncommon, even along the coast of the Persian Gulf. In winter, the capital Riyadh can have night temperatures just above zero, while along the coast of the Red Sea it might be 30 °C during the day. Obviously, winter (November to March) is the best time for a visit to most of the country, except the higher mountain areas.

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Getting There

By Plane

Saudi Arabian Airlines is the main national airlines of Saudi Arabia and is based at King Abdulaziz International Airport (JED) near Jeddah at the Red Sea. From there, it has numerous flights to countries within the region of the Middle East and further away to Nigeria, Dakar, Jakarta, New York, London and Frankfurt, among others. Other airlines are mainly from countries within the region although Air France has flights to and from Paris. King Khalid International Airport (RUH) near the capital Riyadh and King Fahd International Airport (DMM) near Dammam in the east are other main international airports with less flights but still enough within the region. A few other airlines like Air France, KLM, Lufthansa and BMI have flights to either or both of them.

Getting Around

Note: Travelling around independently in Saudi Arabia is only possible when you have a business visa, which you can get when a local person, organisation or company invites you to the country. Otherwise, you will be limited to travel around in a group with a local or foreign travel agency. Generally speaking, tourist numbers are extemely low.

By Plane

Saudi Arabian Airlines provides all domestic flights in the country. Prices are relatively low and services reliable and frequent. Destinations include Riyadh, Jeddah and Dhahran on the east coast.

By Train

Saudi Railways operates a limited number of train links in the country. Destinations along the Riyadh - Dammam line include Dhahran, Abqaiq, Hofuf, Harad and Al Kharj. There is a daily service in aircon trains which also have a dining car. An additional line links Riyadh with Hofuf.

By Car

The roads in Saudi Arabia are of the highest quality and so are rental cars. The local driving skills, unfortunately, are not and you will be surprised how fast some cars actually drive; 200 km/hour is not uncommon.
International rental companies have offices in most bigger cities. A national driver's licence, translated into Arabic, is required. You also need to be 25 years old at least and be a man!
Note that you can not enter Mekka and there are special road signs to make sure you won't.

By Bus

New bus links are introduced all the times to provide aircon services between most major cities and towns. SAPTCO is the main bus company. Minibuses ply the same routes and leave when full.

By Boat

Other than chartering a traditional dhow or luxury yacht there are no options of getting around by boat. International diving trips provide luxury boats as well.